Getting Started with Adobe Photoshop

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Adobe Photoshop includes a ton of tools and it are often quite confusing for a beginner. That’s wherever the new ‘Learn Photoshop’ series comes in. I’m about to show you ways to use a number of the fundamental tools and can eventually teach you ways to edit your photos and build higher web log pictures. I’m aiming to write one tutorial for beginners each month, and you’ll be able to notice them within the Photoshop a hundred and one class.

If you don’t have Photoshop you’ll be able to transfer it as a free thirty day trial from Adobe’s web site. For those desperate to decease, there’s a good Photography arrange at solely $10/month (it conjointly includes Light room) or if you’re a student you’ll be able to get the whole inventive Cloud set at a special worth. you’ll be able to conjointly notice older versions of Photoshop at sensible costs.

Lesson 1: Getting started with Adobe Photoshop

Today’s lesson can show you the way to form a replacement document and that we also will take a glance round the work area.

Creating a replacement document

When you launch Photoshop, you’ll notice that there area unit lots of tools, however there isn’t any document. you’ll produce one by planning to File/New or by pressing Ctrl+N. A box can appear with lots of choices.

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    Name: you’ll name your new document or add a reputation after you reserve it

Document sort and image size: Photoshop features a few predefined documents like paper (letter, tabloid, and international formats like A4), photo, web, and art boards. you’ll conjointly opt for a custom size.

dimension and Height: For custom sizes, you’ve got to introduce the peak and dimension of the document and you’ll add it in pixels, inches, centimeters, millimeters, points, and picas.

  1.    Resolution: refers to the amount of pixels per in. that may be written on paper and therefore the size of these pixels. If you wish to create internet pictures you ought to opt for seventy two pixels/inch, however if your pictures area unit for print, you ought to opt for a minimum of one hundred fifty pixels/inch, although it might be higher to line it at three hundred pixels/inch.
  2. Color Mode: color modes determine how an image will be represented in print or on screen. If you want to edit photos or make images for the web, you should use RGB color mode, but if you want to make images for print, you should work in CMYK color mode. Let’s take a look at the 5 color modes:Bitmap: it’s a black and white image that’s formed only from black and white dots, with no color levels in between
  3. Greyscale: it also uses only one channel like bitmap, but it has intensity levels from 0 to 255. You can use it if you want to print your image on a noncolor printer.
  4. RGB color: this is what you will use if you want to make images for the web. This color mode is used by computer monitors and the human eye. It’s divided into 3 color channels (red, green, and blue) and each channel has intensity levels that range between 0 and 255.
  5. CMYK color: is used for printing and it’s made up of 4 channels: cyan, magenta, yellow, and black.
  6. Lab color: it has two channels dedicated to color and one to intensity.
  7. Background Contents:you can choose between a white background, a transparent one, or you can choose a different color for it.

The work space layout

This is the area you need to get yourself accustomed to. You can add new windows to your work space from Widow.

  • Canvas: is the main work space where you will create and modify images.
  • History: you can access the History panel from Window. It allows you to see the actions you have taken and you can even go back up to a previous point in your work.
  • Layers: each layer on your canvas is an individual level and work done on a layer is independent of the other layers. Since layers are one of the most difficult concepts to understand, the next lesson will focus on them.
  • Tools: the toolbar is full of useful tools, but it takes some time to learn all of them. Some of the most important are:the marquee tools: allow you to make selections
  • the brush tool: can be used to write or draw
  • eraser tool: deletes a certain color or the whole layer
  • eyedropper tool: allows you to select the color from an image
  • paint bucket and gradient tool: will fill the whole layer or a selected area with color or gradient
  • pen tool: you can make shapes or selections
  • text tool: adds text to images
  • shape tools: allows you to draw different shapes

 

 

5 Camera Options for Underwater Photography

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It started innocently enough – a fast visit to Amazon to buy a disposable waterproof camera to induce some underwater shots. Four hours later, I had somehow managed to develop associate underwater camera obsession, and will even be seen eyeing up I like lite Housing for my DSLR at a walloping $1,700. I actually have checked out everything from disposables to “rugged” cameras to underwater housings, therefore i assumed i might place all that recently gained information to sensible use and list a number of the choices that square measure accessible to you if you fancy taking some underwater footage yourself.

1) Disposable Camera

A very cheap and cheerful option priced at around $9 a go is the waterproof disposable camera. Image quality will be poor and you get zero control of any description, but if you just want to record the moment you can’t really go wrong. This is what I have used in the past, and whilst the image quality is poor (poorer than an iPhone snap) for price they can’t be beaten.

2) WaterProof Housing for iPhone

The second option I looked at was a waterproof housing for the iPhone – I looked at two: the LIfeProof ones, and the Watershot ones (which someone else helpfully pointed out to me) Of the two, the Watershot one looks the best – the number of reviewers stating that their cameras didn’t work after using the Lifeproof case really put me off: I want my $500 phone to be in one piece after an outing to the pool! There are a few of these housings available, just do your research and make sure you test them before bringing your iPhone into water with it. This is a great option if you just want to take casual pics, and have the ability to use what you already have!

 

3) Rugged WaterProof Point and Shoots

There area unit some of those on the market, every at completely different worth points. As a rule they’re all waterproof, shock proof, drop proof and then on, creating them ideal for delivering to the youngsters to require photos or for general family holidays at the beach or pool etc. The draw back to those is that the Image quality is poorer than those in love a comparable purpose and shoot that does not have an equivalent “tough” issue.

Here are some of the ones available and their price points.

Fujifilm FinePix XP80 around $175

Olympus TG-860 around $230

Canon PowerShot D30 – around $250

Ricoh WG-5 around $260

Olympus TG-4 – around $380

Nikon 1 AW1 around $700

Naturally, as you go up the price points the features go up: if you are interested primarily in photo quality look at the aperture, ISO speed, sensor size, autofocus speed and frames per second, just as you would with any camera. If you intend to do deeper diving etc, then look at the “toughness” specs – they all have different ratings for underwater etc.

4) Point and Shoot with Underwater Housing

If you already have a point and shoot then this might be a no-brainer, you can simply pick up an underwater housing for it and away you go! The only point and shoot I have is years old, and therefore the specs of it are surpassed even by the rugged point and shoots, and to add to it, underwater housing hard to come by for this model and therefore expensive. If you have a newer model though, you should be able to pick up a housing relatively cheaply. You’ll get better results if you get a housing built specifically for your point and shoot model, so you’ll need to search on Amazon for it. These range from about $100 to $400, depending on manufacturers etc.

If you don’t already have one, but are more serious about underwater photography, then you can of course buy a decent point and shoot and the housing, and this will give you better control and image quality than the rugged versions above. A friend of mine said that she noticed that many pros used the Sony RX100 (original model which is priced around $400) combined with a underwater housing (at around $150 upwards depending on brand) and were taking amazing images with them – and as usual she was right 🙂 It looks like a good combination that is relatively inexpensive and will give you great looking images. 

5) Waterproof Housing for your DSLR

If you are really serious about taking decent underwater shots, then you can also invest in an underwater housing for your DSLR. At this point, I would not scrimp on quality as if water gets in, it’s toast for your DSLR so it’s a pricey mistake. I likelite are generally considered to be the best – the one for the Canon 5D Mk3 comes in at a whopping $1,799 though. This takes it out of many people’s price range, and although of course you can get cheaper versions (one from Neewer for example only costs around $600) it’s still only worth it if you are serious about underwater photography.

The plus side is you get complete creative control of your images, both in capture and in processing.


Which is the right one for you?

I think that covers all the categories of choices on the market, and that i do not believe that one is desirable to the other: it depends on however serious you’re concerning underwater photography, or whether or not you simply need a family friendly choice, and after all what proportion you’re willing to pay. If you simply need a laugh with the camera then opt for a disposable or one amongst the cheaper rugged purpose and shoots. If you continue to wish to require semi-decent pics, and love the thought of getting a camera that’s just about indestructible (i.e five year recent proof!) and one thing for family holidays then get one amongst the upper priced rugged ones. If you actually do wish to urge the simplest footage doable however still during a “normal” surroundings, then either a degree and shoot with housing is your best bet, or Associate in Nursing Associate in Nursing underwater housing for your DSLR if you’re terribly serious concerning it.

 

 

Guide to Fixing White Balance in Processing

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Although I continually suggest setting your white balance privately (and here’s my favorite thanks to do it!) it’s comparatively straightforward to correct your white balance in process, in either Photoshop / components and Lightroom. If you have got a neutral tone in your image, then you’ll virtually fix it during a matter of minutes (if you do not, it is a bit a lot of difficult, however still do-able!))

Checking and fixing your white balance ought to be the primary factor you are doing in writing to a picture, thus here’s a way to do it!

Step One: Grab Your White Balance Tool

The first thing you need to do is grab your white balance tool – this looks like a big dropper. They look a little bit different in ACR and Lightroom, so I’ve taken a screenshot of each below so you can see what they look like.

Step Two: Check Your Neutral

On the left is an image that I took where I didn’t set the correct white balance in camera (tsk, tsk) and I’ll use this today to demonstrate a couple of different ways to set your white balance in processing.

You can probably tell just by looking at it that it is too cool (all that blue!) so we need to check and change the white balance on this one for sure!

However, if you weren’t so sure whether the white balance is correct, you can check it – by hovering your white balance tool over a neutral area.

In this particular image, there are a number of neutrals we can use (neutrals being anything white, black or grey) and having a neutral like this in your image makes setting the correct white balance much easier. In this case, we could use the sidewalk / pavement or even the grey boots to set our white balance.

All you need to do is take the white balance tool and hover over your known neutral. If the RGB numbers aren’t all almost equal (it doesn’t matter what the numbers are, just that they are all the same or nearly the same) then your white balance is off!

Step Three – Click on The Neutral Area

Changing your WB super easy, simply click with your dropper on your chosen neutral area – in this case I’m clicking on the concrete on the sidewalk – and your image will change to the correct white balance by making the RGB numbers of that area the same. (told you it was easy!)

As you click around the neutral area you will find that your will get a slightly different color to your image. All you need to do is choose a white balance that is most pleasing to you, or what looks the most like the scene really did. Get it as close as you can at this stage.

Step Four – Fine Tune with The Sliders

From here, you might need to fine tune by moving the sliders that are just underneath your dropper tool in Lightroom (or at the top of the basic panel on the right in ACR)

If you’re thinking that it’s still too cool / blue move the temperature slider to the correct toward yellow, too heat and you progress it move it towards blue. you would possibly conjointly ought to modify your tint sliders – once more if the image is wanting too pink overall then move it toward inexperienced, and if it’s too inexperienced slide it over by some notches toward the magenta slide. If you’re unsure, move the sliders separately – you’ll begin to examine a distinction and see if it’s higher or worse than before!

Help! There Isn’t A Neutral (or it gives you a wonky looking image)

 

Assuming you shot in RAW (and if you don’t this can be a reasonably smart reason to try and do so!) you may have an inventory of white balance choices from the drop menu right the correct. merely select the white balance that was nighest to the conditions you shot in. For this explicit image, the day was terribly overcast, therefore i might select Cloudy or Shade from the change posture menu.

From there, again, you will probably need to move your sliders to get the right white balance.

If you are a JPEG shooter you won’t have these drop down options, your only option is to move the temperature and tint sliders to get it right (and make a note to find out how to make the switch to RAW)

Here’s the same image with the white balance corrected.

From there, again, you will probably need to move your sliders to get the right white balance.

If you are a JPEG shooter you won’t have these drop down options, your only option is to move the temperature and tint sliders to get it right (and make a note to find out how to make the switch to RAW)

Here’s the same image with the white balance corrected.

10 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Light room

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One of the good options of sunshine area is that the ability to synchronise settings. It’s an enormous time-saver once you have a series of pictures, all shot in similar conditions. Once you’re proud of the overall settings (white balance, shadow-highlight magnitude relation, etc.) of 1 image, you’ll synchronise the remainder of the pictures within the series, with constant settings. After that, you’ll solely got to fine-tune the others.

This before image is too cool for my liking, and there is not enough separation between the model’s hair and the remove background. I am also going to smooth out her skin tone, and bring a bit more sparkle to her eyes.

As you work through each step on your own image, play around with the sliders to see what effect each one of them has.

Step #1: Import your file

In the LIBRARY module, import your image into Lightroom. I actually have created a custom sharpening planned (shown here), that I notice works with the bulk of my portraits. I apply this planned upon import – a handy cutoff, particularly once you’re mercantilism an outsized variety of pictures right away.

To apply a planned on import, visit the righthand panel in LR, to the tab tagged “Apply throughout import”. visit Develop settings > user presets, then click on the planned you want to use.

Once you’ve got foreign your file, visit the DEVELOP module.

Step #2: Adjust the white balance

The colour tint in this photo is a bit cold. There are a number of ways to adjust the white balance. If there was a neutral wall or surface in this photo, you could use the eyedropper tool. In this case, there isn’t a neutral reference, so I have moved the sliders under the white balance section to give the image more warmth.

Step #3: Adjust highlights and shadows

The model’s skin tone is a little too light, and her hair and the background are too dark. To redress the imbalance, pull back the highlights and lighten the shadows. You can fine-tune this later if necessary.

Step #4: Increase vibrance and saturation

The image still looks a little dull. Use the sliders under the presence tab to increase the vibrance and saturation, and move the whites slider up to give your portrait a nice clean look. Now it’s starting to look like my model’s real-life skin tone.

Step #5: Crop your image

You can crop at any stage. I’ve cropped this image for a tighter, better-balanced headshot.

Step #6: Soften the skin

Zoom in to take a closer look at the skin. This model is very young with almost flawless skin. Usually I wouldn’t do much, if any, softening with such great skin. However, for the purpose of this exercise, I will.

Select the brush tool. You can load your brush with any adjustments you want to apply. Although there are brush presets you can use for skin softening, teeth whitening, etc., I find them too heavy-handed.

Set the clarity slider down to around -35 to -40, and the (contrast to +35, and the Highlights to +15 or so – this will help maintain contrast and keep the face from looking flat) sharpness up to +20. This will vary per your subject’s skin, and therefore the quite impact you would like to realize. during this example it’ll simply even out the skin tone and provides it a soft, glowing look. A mature person photographed in stronger lightweight, would force a distinct treatment. The lower the clarity slider, the softer the skin can seem. For a dingy look, increase the clarity slider.

Reducing the clarity tends to deform the image, thus you’ll be able to increase the distinction, deepen the shadows and increase the highlights to balance this out. Keep the feather and flow at 100 percent, and brush everywhere the face with an oversized brush.

Step #7: Fine-tune your adjustments

Underneath the image, check the box “Show selected mask overlay” (or use the keyboard shortcut, O) to see exactly what parts of the image your brush adjustments have touched. Often you’ll find it has covered the eyes and mouth, which is not desirable. Still using the adjustment brush, click on the erase brush tool, and remove the brushed-on effect from around the eyes, mouth, and hair.

Step #8: Brighten the eyes

Zooming in even closer, then use the Adjustment Brush to add clarity and sparkle to the eyes. Note that by increasing the clarity, you also make the affected part of the image darker. Compensate with your exposure slider.

In this photo, I also increased the saturation of the iris a little to enhance the blue of the model’s eyes. Be sparing with this technique to avoid an unnatural look.

Step #9: Add colour to the mouth

Moving on to the mouth area now. Again, this model doesn’t need any work on her lips or teeth; this is for the purpose of demonstration. Using the same technique as with the eyes, brush on clarity and increase saturation. I have also moved the temp and tint sliders up to alter the hue of her lips.

Step #10: Whiten the teeth

To lighten teeth, use the brush tool with the saturation slider decreased, and the exposure slider increased just a little. As with the eyes, be sparing with this step.

6 Tips for Freelance Graphic Designers

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can’t believe it’s already been six months since launching Spruce Rd. in January! Seriously, time flies. i believed it’d be fun to share my reflections from these past six months, and be clear in what worked and didn’t work for my business. I announce concerning the teachings learned from my 1st month of freelancing, if you would like to visualize that out as well!

Stay tuned at the top for a FREE bonus, the Freelance guide list. This list is certainly one thing that I want I had beginning out, and it provides a number of steps for your freelance career to stay you on target.

What worked

Attracting ideal clients

One of the main reasons I launched my own business was to work with clients that were a better fit with my vision. I desired to work one-on-one with clients, who valued the design process, and wanted quality design. I didn’t want my portfolio to be passively influenced by the projects that came my way, so instead I opted for tailoring my blog content and portfolio to my niche market. I am still working on defining this audience right now, but I would say they love good design, are passionate about their small business, and are eager to get noticed online!

I can’t tell you how great it felt to finally work with a client who fit this profile to a T. I am SO thankful for these wonderful clients, and the joy of being involved in launching their business, and bringing it to that next level.

Community

I have been blown away by friendships I have formed online through my business. It really has been one of the best benefits of going out on my own, and was entirely unexpected. It was amazing that the first time I talked to another fellow designer on the phone, I left feeling energized and as if we were long-time friends. Since launching Spruce Rd., I can say I have truly gained friendships that have pushed me both creatively and in my business. I would bet that behind most successful entrepreneurs, there is a team of supporters + cheerleaders that propel them forward. I can say that has definitely been true for my business, and I am forever grateful for it.

Blogging

Prior to going full time with Spruce Rd., I knew that prioritizing my blog was necessary to get my name out there. The blog has brought in the most traffic to my site, most of which has come from Pinterest. If I didn’t have a blog, it would be challenging to build my business online. If you don’t enjoy blogging, definitely don’t pursue it. It consumes a lot of time + energy, so it is important that it aligns with your vision and is something you enjoy. If I didn’t have a blog from the beginning, I would have pursued guest blogging, webinars, or other social media to put myself out there. I am thankful that my blog has brought me clients, and even facilitated collaborations with fellow designers!

Book keeping

On a seemingly boring note, I have not been stressed about bookkeeping! I know this is a hangup for many freelancers, and I decided early on that I would not let it deter me from pursuing my business. I hired an accountant from the get go, invested in an online bookkeeping system (Quick books), that makes my accountant’s life easy, and made sure I kept it updated every week.

Packaged Services

After payment multiple hours per week replying to inquiries with a custom proposal, I finally took the leap and commenced providing prepacked services. Most of the inquiries were looking for similar services, thus I created three tiers of branding packages. I even denote them on-line, that has saved American state lots of time! I no longer waste a potential client’s time in reaching bent American state for a quote, and instead they’re going to instantly browse my prices and see if we’ve got a bent to square measure the proper work. I in addition spent associate excessive quantity of your time at intervals the initial couple months, emailing back and forth with potential shoppers, entirely to go looking out out they weren’t positive what they were looking for. Posting my prepacked services on-line has eliminated the e-mail chains.

Block out time for office hours

Since my husband is in graduate school, his schedule is inconsistent between varied category times, and hours of learning. thanks to this, I even have guilt-free opted for a loose schedule. I worked-out middle day, worked some hours, took a possibility, worked into the night, etc. I had some structure to the day, however no specific set hours. currently that he’s nearing the top of college and encompasses a 9-5 field work schedule, i spotted i want to stay to a schedule. i believe a want for a routine is innate in every people, and that i am realizing that additional and additional.

10 easy Illustrator tools to improve your designs

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Adobe Illustrator is one of the best graphic design software when it comes to designing your own logo and graphics. I use it for a couple of years now, and I am still in love with it.

But a lot of people ar afraid to take the leap in purchasing Adobe Illustrator because it looks too confusing. Can you relate? In this blog post, I will show you the top 10 easiest Illustrator tools to improve your designs. It even comes with video tutorials and a free 8-day email course that will teach you how you can design a professional brand for your blog.

Pen tool

A pen tool is a tool that allows you to create your own graphics. Whether it is a heart or a jar with candy, you can design it all! You almost literally draw your own graphics. The pen tool is also mostly used to design logo’s, printables, for creating patterns, etc.

Curvate tool

Are you having a hard time with creating curved lines with the pen tool? Then one of these Illustrator tools is perfectly for you: The curvate tool. This tool will automatically add curves to your path. So no drama with creating curves again!

White arrow tool

After you just created your graphic, you notice that one anchor point doesn’t look how it had supposed to. Are you going to do it again? Don’t think so huh? Now it is time for the white arrow tool. Click on the graphic, select the anchor point you want to adjust and move it around! Amazing right? And no it’s not magic. This also works with paths. Why don’t you try it yourself?

your designs

Adobe Illustrator is one of the best graphic design software when it comes to designing your own logo and graphics. I use it for a couple of years now, and I am still in love with it.

But a lot of people ar afraid to take the leap in purchasing Adobe Illustrator because it looks too confusing. Can you relate? In this blog post, I will show you the top 10 easiest Illustrator tools to improve your designs. It even comes with video tutorials and a free 8-day email course that will teach you how you can design a professional brand for your blog.

Pen tool

A pen tool is a tool that allows you to create your own graphics. Whether it is a heart or a jar with candy, you can design it all! You almost literally draw your own graphics. The pen tool is also mostly used to design logo’s, printable, for creating patterns, etc.

Curvate tool

Are you having a hard time with creating curved lines with the pen tool? Then one of these Illustrator tools is perfectly for you: The curvate tool. This tool will automatically add curves to your path. So no drama with creating curves again!

 

White arrow tool

After you just created your graphic, you notice that one anchor point doesn’t look how it had supposed to. Are you going to do it again? Don’t think so huh? Now it is time for the white arrow tool. Click on the graphic, select the anchor point you want to adjust and move it around! Amazing right? And no it’s not magic. This also works with paths. Why don’t you try it yourself?

your designs

Adobe Illustrator is one of the best graphic design software when it comes to designing your own logo and graphics. I use it for a couple of years now, and I am still in love with it.

But a lot of people ar afraid to take the leap in purchasing Adobe Illustrator because it looks too confusing. Can you relate? In this blog post, I will show you the top 10 easiest Illustrator tools to improve your designs. It even comes with video tutorials and a free 8-day email course that will teach you how you can design a professional brand for your blog.

Pen tool

A pen tool is a tool that allows you to create your own graphics. Whether it is a heart or a jar with candy, you can design it all! You almost literally draw your own graphics. The pen tool is also mostly used to design logo’s, printables, for creating patterns, etc.

Curvate tool

Are you having a hard time with creating curved lines with the pen tool? Then one of these Illustrator tools is perfectly for you: The curvate tool. This tool will automatically add curves to your path. So no drama with creating curves again!

 

White arrow tool

After you just created your graphic, you notice that one anchor point doesn’t look how it had supposed to. Are you going to do it again? Don’t think so huh? Now it is time for the white arrow tool. Click on the graphic, select the anchor point you want to adjust and move it around! Amazing right? And no it’s not magic. This also works with paths. Why don’t you try it yourself?

Lasso tool

You already probably figured out that you can select things by dragging a square. But what if we want to select another shape that doesn’t fit in the square? That is why Illustrator has a lasso tool. With one of these Illustrator tools, you can draw a selection. I found this out a year after I started with using Adobe Illustrator, and I don’t want you to happen the same, haha.

Pathfinder

The pathfinder is one of the most amazing Adobe Illustrator tools. With this tool, you can cut out shapes, merge shapes, divide them, and a lot more. I use this Adobe Illustrator tool most of the time when I want to merge shapes or cut out things. I created a graphic here, that I also used in my other post:

Gradient Mesh tool

Say hello to the most amazing gradient tool ever. With this, you can create gradients that adjust themselves to the shape you created. Yea that probably sounds really hard. Let me try to explain this Illustrator tool, and if you still don’t get it, you can watch the video down below.

After you created a shape, select the Gradient Mesh tool, and then click somewhere on your Graphic. Now you probably see a weird misshaped cross now with a little square (we call that an anchor point) in the middle. Now grab the white arrow tool, and then select the anchor point, and give it another fill color. Now it is a gradient. You can add as many squares as you want if you want to create a more detailed gradient.

Image Trace

A lot of graphic designers hate this Adobe Illustrator tool, but it actually is really handy. If you just want to trace a logo, (for example twitter to design your own share buttons) you can just insert the image, and then click image trace. The image tracer will automatically trace the logo. Now click expand, and ungroup, and you can move the part around that you want. Just delete the unneeded parts, and tadá, this is how you create your own share buttons the easiest way.

 Clipping Mask

Ever wondered how people created a picture in a circle, star or another shape? Well here is your answer. The clipping mask tool. With this Illustrator tool, you can also ‘’cut out’’ thing in the shape that you want, but just a little different. First, you need to create the shape. Whether it is a cupcake or a circle, It is all possible. If you have 2 separate shapes, make sure to merge them first with the Pathfinder tool

After you created the shape, insert an image or a graphic. Place the shape on top. Next, select them both, and go to Object>Clipping Mask>Make. (my screen recorder won’t show the menu Sorry!) Now you know the secret of creating different shaped pictures. Psst, don’t tell anyone. Hahaha actually, you should tell anyone because more people need to know about these Illustrator tools.

Blend tool

Did you ever created 2 different shapes and you were like: If I only could think about a shape that is between those shapes. Hello, Blend Tool! With this tool, you can create 2 different graphics. Next, select them both, click on the blend tool, and they create a kind of gradient from the one shape to the other one. Double click on the tool, and select the specific steps option, and fill in the steps that you want. Go to object> expand. Now they are all converted to different, editable shaped. Select the shape you like the most of them and tada! Amazing right?

Touch type tool

Every Graphic Designer has probably a passion for fonts. We don’t download movies or games, we download fonts (That’s what my boyfriend said once haha). So when you download those amazing free fonts, there is always a little pain in the *beep*: Bad kerning! If you really pay attention to that, you see bad kerning everywhere (unfortunately). So how can you fix that you probably asking? With the touch type tool my friend! With one of these amazing Illustrator tools, you can select each letter of a word, and move it around. Fixing bad kerning has never been easier.

Still not convinced? But now you know why I don’t use Canva, and why I am not going to use it in the future. Why to use Canva if we can create unlimited Graphics with Adobe Illustrator. How many times I have been on Pinterest and I see the same background photo, the same graphic, and the same font every time?!

Tips for Better Sunset Photography

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A beautiful sunset. A scene bathed in spectacular light –sunsets are a photographer’s dream come true, presenting a chance for some truly dramatic images.

But while sunsets present excellent photo opportunities, capturing the tremendous beauty of a sunset can be difficult! It’s hard to convey the complex range of colors, light, and beauty of a sunset, into a simple two-dimensional image. And then there is the issue with camera settings: often, what we see in-person, and what the camera renders as an image, are two entirely different things.

To combat these challenges, arm yourself with the tools that you need to create dynamic sunset images. Whether you’re just getting started with sunset photography, or looking to brush up on some technique, here are some tips that will get you on track.

Plan Ahead

While it’s true that stunning sunset images can be taken spur of the moment, planning ahead can give you an advantage. Scout out ideal locations ahead of time. Try to look for places that have a great vantage point, and interesting elements to include in your compositions.

Check the sunset times, and plan to be there early to set up and get ready. Plan to stick around long enough. Often, about 20 minutes after the sun dips below the horizon, the sky will light up in another beautiful display of vibrant colors. But many people pack up and leave before this ‘second sunset,’ missing out on this opportunity.

Also, be sure to keep an eye on the weather. If a storm is clearing, seize the opportunity and get ready to go capture the sunset. The dramatic colors after a storm and the dramatic light streaming through the clouds make for beautiful sunset images.

Plan Ahead

While it’s true that stunning sunset images can be taken spur of the moment, planning ahead can give you an advantage. Scout out ideal locations ahead of time. Try to look for places that have a great vantage point, and interesting elements to include in your compositions.

Check the sunset times, and plan to be there early to set up and get ready. Plan to stick around long enough. Often, about 20 minutes after the sun dips below the horizon, the sky will light up in another beautiful display of vibrant colors. But many people pack up and leave before this ‘second sunset,’ missing out on this opportunity.

Also, be sure to keep an eye on the weather. If a storm is clearing, seize the opportunity and get ready to go capture the sunset. The dramatic colors after a storm and the dramatic light streaming through the clouds make for beautiful sunset images.

Camera Settings and Gear for Sunsets

When left to its own devices, the camera will often render an image differently than we would like. Sunsets are a great opportunity to get out of auto mode, and use settings that will give you more control over your images.

  • Set Your Shooting Mode: Aperture priority is a good choice when you want complete control over the depth of field in an image. Or choose shutter priority for absolute control over the exposure. And of course, try to shoot in the lowest ISO possible (ISO 100) to avoid grainy images.
  • Experiment With Exposures: Switching into shutter priority mode allows you to start with a faster shutter speed, and work down into slower ones, allowing you to experiment with a number of different exposures. Clouds and water can especially benefit from a long exposure time, as the slow shutter speeds will render these elements as soft and streaky, with a painting-like quality. When shooting long exposures, be sure to use a tripod to steady the camera and reduce image blur.
  • Opt for a Graduated Neutral Density (ND) Filter: While exposing for the sky will give you amazing colors, this can cause the foreground to be dark and underexposed. Consider using a graduated neutral density (ND) filter, which will help you to get the exposure just right.
  • Set the White Balance: When shooting sunsets, you’re going to want to ditch the auto white balance. Instead, opt for ‘shade,’ which will help to draw beautiful warm golden hues out of the sunset. Shooting in RAW is always a good idea, since this will allow you to adjust the white balance in post processing.
  • Use Different Focal Lengths: For sunset photography, a wide-angle lens is a great option. These lenses create more distance between the foreground and background elements, increasing the sense of depth in a photo, and helping the foreground elements to stand out. On the other hand, telephoto lenses cause elements in an image to appear more compressed, reducing the sense of depth in a photo. Opt for a telephoto lens if you want to focus in on isolated elements, or to make the sun look bigger in a scene.

Sunset photography presents an excellent opportunity to capture some truly amazing images. Be ready ahead of time, and don’t hesitate to experiment with different camera settings as the light continues to change.

The best sunset photos are ones that have strong compositions, so look for opportunities to create solid images by adding plenty of foreground interest. By taking the time to practice new techniques, and experimenting with different settings, you’ll soon have your own collection of dramatic sunset photos.